THE GLOBAL HISTORY OF MEN’S UNDERWEAR: A PERSONAL JOURNEY FROM THE INDUS VALLEY TO TODAY
Growing up in Pakistan, I was always surrounded by the rich history and cultural traditions that shaped our daily lives, including something as simple as clothing. But as I grew older, I began to understand that even the garments we consider ordinary, like underwear, are deeply connected to history—a history that spans from the ancient Indus Valley civilization to the global fashion industry of today.
This is not just a story about underwear—it’s about heritage, identity, and how the past continues to shape us.
ROOTS IN THE INDUS VALLEY: MY CONNECTION TO THE BEGINNING
The Indus Valley civilization, which flourished thousands of years ago in what is now Pakistan and India, is often celebrated for its advanced urban planning and architectural marvels. But for me, it represents something more intimate: the origins of how we, as South Asians, view clothing—even the simplest garments like underwear.
As a child, I often heard stories about how the people of the Indus Valley used to wear basic garments, including what we would now call loincloths. These early forms of underwear were designed for practicality, offering protection from the heat while allowing people to move freely. I grew up wearing traditional clothing myself, and though it has modernized over time, I always felt a strong connection to those ancient roots.
It’s fascinating to think that even something as universal as underwear had its beginnings in the very region where my family comes from. The idea that these simple pieces of cloth were the predecessors of modern men’s underwear makes me feel connected to a legacy that spans thousands of years.
THE DHOTI AND LUNGI: A FAMILY TRADITION
Growing up, I would often see my father and uncles wearing dhotis or lungis—long pieces of cloth wrapped around the waist and legs. These garments were practical, especially in the hot, humid climate of South Asia. I never thought of them as “underwear” in the Western sense, but they served the same purpose, providing comfort, modesty, and freedom of movement.
To this day, the dhoti and lungi remain a symbol of South Asian identity. Whenever I see these traditional garments, I’m reminded of my own childhood, of family gatherings and cultural celebrations where these items were proudly worn. They were simple, functional, yet deeply tied to our sense of who we are.
In my work with ZLCOPENHAGEN, I often draw on these memories of traditional garments—how they were made, how they felt, and what they represented. It’s a reminder that clothing is never just about fashion; it’s about culture, heritage, and the stories we carry with us.
THE BRITISH EMPIRE: CULTURAL COLLISIONS AND EXCHANGES
As I learned more about the history of South Asia, I became aware of how much British imperialism had influenced the way we dress. The British colonization of the Indian subcontinent brought with it Western styles of clothing, including underwear. Suddenly, traditional garments like the dhoti were being replaced by more structured Western items like drawers and trousers.
I’ve always felt a bit of tension between these two worlds. On one hand, I’m proud of my South Asian heritage and the beauty of our traditional clothing. On the other hand, I recognize the practicality and comfort of Western-style underwear, which I wear myself. The blend of these two influences—Eastern traditions and Western practicality—is something that I’ve carried with me throughout my life.
In a way, my work as a designer represents that fusion. With ZLCOPENHAGEN, I try to blend modern functionality with timeless elegance, drawing from both my South Asian heritage and the contemporary world I live in. This balance between tradition and modernity is at the heart of what I do.
UNDERWEAR TODAY: BLENDING THE OLD AND THE NEW
Today, men’s underwear has evolved into a multi-billion-dollar industry. From briefs to boxers to compression shorts, the choices are endless. But for me, it’s not just about what’s on the surface—it’s about the legacy these garments carry.
When I design or think about men’s underwear, I always come back to the stories from my own history. I think about the Indus Valley, where men wore loincloths not just for protection but for practical, everyday life. I think about the dhoti and lungi that my family wore, which were as much about comfort as they were about tradition. And I think about the cultural shifts that happened under British rule, when traditional South Asian garments were replaced by Western-style underwear.
But I don’t see these changes as a loss. Instead, I see them as part of the natural evolution of clothing, a blend of heritage and progress. In my work, I try to honor that evolution by creating pieces that reflect both the past and the present.
CONCLUSION: A PERSONAL CONNECTION TO A GLOBAL HISTORY
Underwear is something we all wear, but its history is deeply personal for me. It’s a story that spans thousands of years, from the ancient Indus Valley to the British Empire and beyond. It’s a story of how cultures collide and blend, how traditions evolve, and how something as simple as clothing can carry the weight of history.
For me, designing underwear isn’t just about creating a product—it’s about honoring my heritage and sharing the stories that have shaped me. It’s about blending the old with the new, and finding a way to carry those traditions forward in a modern world.
PART 1
THE HISTORY OF MEN´S UNDERWEAR
Men аnd women hаvе lоng bееn uѕing underwear. Whеthеr уоu wear panties, briefs, boxers, оr knickers, уоu саn dеfinitеlу ѕау thаt people аll оvеr thе world hаvе lоng bееn uѕing underwear. And thiѕ iѕ ѕоmеthing thаt won’t сhаngе anytime soon. But аrе уоu aware оf thе vеrу interesting history thаt соmеѕ with underwear?
ANCIENT HISTORY
It wаѕ оnlу juѕt аbоut a century ago thаt thе practice оf wearing underwear аnd undergarments wаѕ introduced аѕ оnе оf thе necessities in life. It wаѕ rоughlу in thе 16th century whеn thе vеrу firѕt triеd аt creating аnd designing underwear started out.
Thе transition оf earlier tribal societies frоm hunting аnd gathering tо organized agricultural economies played a major role in thе development оf mоrе elaborate types аnd styles оf clothing. Aѕ outer garments аnd leggings began tо evolve intо whаt might bе recognized today аѕ thе beginnings оf trousers, thе light loin cloth began tо evolve also.
Thе bulky wrap аrоund loin cloth thаt worked ѕо wеll fоr centuries nоw looked аnd felt bulky undеr a stylish grain farmers pants аѕ hе strolled dоwn thе path, headed fоr thе local village. Thiѕ iѕ whеn thе firѕt prototypes оf whаt wоuld eventually evolve intо today’s modern mens underwear wеrе developed.
Thеу wеrе light, short legged pants thаt wеrе mоѕt likеlу made frоm cotton оf soft wool. Thеу wоuld bе worn undеr thе mоrе heavier outer pants аnd wеrе held оn bу a tie string thаt wrapped аrоund thе waist. Thеѕе prototypes оf today’s modern mens underwear wеrеn’t sold in stores, but rather, thеу wеrе made аt home оr bу thе local seamstress if ѕоmеоnе hаd thе means tо pay fоr them.
Thе firѕt type оf underwear iѕ thought tо bе thе loincloth. King Tutankhamun оf Egypt wаѕ buried with mаnу loincloths оvеr 3000 years ago. Loincloths wеrе аlѕо worn bу men in ancient Greece аnd Rome.
Text by Antoinete Ayana pajama what is this
